Best breed of dog for me?

[axel]

My Requirements:

*CANNOT be a small or toy dog (anklebiters, ech.) I would prefer medium or large.
*SHOULD be moderately active to fairly inactive, but I won't mind a dog that can help me get in shape as well. ^^
* MUST be easily trained, I don't want a stubborn dog that I have to spend three days teaching it to sit on command... or worse, more than a week or two to teach it not to potty in the house.
*I live in an apartment, but I have a small yard
*Must be fairly easy to groom, shedding is no big deal, but I don't want a dog that's going to need to be brushed more than once a day, preferably less.

MY Landlord's requirements: 

Basically the same as mine, only he doesn't want big (Large to giant) dogs in his apartment

[?SilentCallings?]

I think a Border Collie or Labrador Retriever would be a good choice for you, or maybe even a Beagle~<3 Or you could always go to a shelter and search for some mutts there, always great to save a life~
-
-
-

[seriously]

As far as training goes, it honestly depends on the dog itself and their personality, their like humans, they can either be stubborn or submissive, or somewhere in between. I would suggest a golden retriever, Labrador retriever, or a pit bull. All dogs need to have some sort of daily exercise, even if it's just playing fetch in the yard for a few minutes every hour or walking around the block a couple times. I would probably say an older puppy or young adult dog would be best for you, they don't chew as much, and they are much calmer in my opinion, also they don't potty as much. Golden retrievers do require a daily brushing, or even at least a groom twice every week, as far as pit bull's and Labradors they don't require hardly any grooming at all but they shed far worse. I do not think a black dog would be the best decision because they have a tendency to naturally smell, no matter how much or we'll you bath them. Labradors and goldens are usually fairly easy to train, I would say easier than a pittie, but like I said, depends on how eager to please the dog is. If your also looking for some kind of guard dog I'd see any of these dogs acting on natural instinct, pit bull's have higher jaw pressure though so they'd do a better job of keeping you protected. Due to the reputation of the breed though, there's a possibility that your landlord would refuse a bully breed so that may help with the decision. Make sure you don't over feed retrievers though, they get easily overweight, I suggest a good quality DRY food one feeding in the morning, one at night not too close to bedtime. NO table scraps and don't abuse treats, they are to reward behavior only. Never ever feed a dog as much as the bag says, they overuse the quantity to make you buy more.

[axel]

Thanks guys.

[seriously]

Month One

Two months before getting your puppy, save any extra money possible. Check breeder reputations in your area for each breed and narrow it down to a couple. Make sure your breeder is close to your area because it is best to visit your puppy often so they get used to you.

Month Two

The month before you get your puppy. Go to each breeder and check out what they have, if they have pups that won't be ready to go for a couple months, that also works it will give you more time to earn extra money you may need. Pick out your puppy, probably a smaller one in the litter in your case depending on the appearance and attitude that fits you, make sure to visit it a couple times a week and put a deposit on the puppy so no one else can take it from you.

Make an appointment with your vet to check for parvo, worms, and kennel cough which could not only be fatal, but it will transmit to your cat. I'd ask your vet if you could get anything for fleas and heart worm preventatives at the age, never ever get flea collars, they don't work.

Get all supplies including :

-Food, a good quality, I suggest asking your vet on foods like Science Diet, Best Breed, and Blue Buffalo, which are expensive, but they are good quality. If they are too expensive, I would get Iams, Pedigree or Rachel Ray dog food,if that is still tipping the limit on price, get a food that has no colors- color means sugar and dye which is not good for dogs. Always feed dry food unless they refuse to eat, then mix a tiny bit of can with their dry, and if they still won't eat give them straight canned until they are back to normal, if their diet doesn't return then contact your vet.

-Collar, Leash, and Tags. An adjustable collar would work best, something sturdy and comfortable NO CHOKE OR CHAIN COLLARS, they can cause irritation or even cause permanent damage. You should be able to fit your fingers between their neck and their collar at all times, check about once every week, if it gets too tight loosen it, but just not too much that your puppy can get their paws stuck in their collar and freak out. As for leash, a retractable leash would be best, but make sure it is strong enough to hold the breed, and long enough to give them enough room. NEVER LET YOUR DOG OFF THE LEASH, NO MATTER HOW WELL-TRAINED THEY ARE. Tags should include the rabies tags and then the ID tags with your name, phone number and address, as well as your dogs name.

-Bed, Toys, Food / Water Bowls, Treats. A bed can be simple, nutural in price not designer, but not so cheap it will fall apart. Just somewhere for it to nap throughout the day. Toys without stuffing, puppies will tear out stuffing and eat it which can get caught in their stomachs and it could kill them ; Tennis balls, kong toys, rubber bones NEVER RAWHIDES OR OTHER ACTUAL ANIMAL BONES, and tug ropes. Food and water bowls don't have to be too expensive, usually dogs will chew and ruin plastic bowls, and china bowls can get annoying with the tags clinking on the sides, also they break easily so metal or rubber work best. If you get a lab, an elevated bowl would work best for their adult years, it's not as hard on their back and neck and they don't have arthrites problems in the future.

-Cheap Blanket, Crate. Crate training is the best potty training option out there, and you should always keep your puppy crated at night, no matter how much they whine because they want in your bed. Eventually they will get used to it, also, put the cheap blanket in there for comfort, maybe a couple toys that don't squeak so they are entertained. Usually they won't potty in their living space unless the cage is too big, they will potty on one half and sleep in the other. I suggest a kennel cab and not a metal cage, they can get there toes and teeth stuck in the bars which can be really painful. As soon as you wake up when crate training, you should take your puppy outside. Make sure to cut any loose strings off of the cheap blankets so they don't get them stuck in their teeth, feet and it they eat them, their intestines.

-Baby Pool, Good Dog Shampoo, Brush/ Comb . For bathing and grooming, baby pool to keep your water warm, a good quality DOG shampoo and for the types of dogs your looking at, a bristle brush with short, closely spaced bristles.

Month Three

Yay! Time to get your puppy! When your picking up the puppy, ask the director of the facility to purchase a small bag of whatever food they are currently feeding the pup. The first couple days at your home give your puppy strictly that food, for the rest of that week mix half of their food with half of yours. NO TABLE SCRAPS. They get fed twice a day, once in the morning, and once in the late afternoon/evening, never directly before bed, or a walk, it can cause bloat. Water should be accessible at all times. Potty breaks should be taken every single hour, stay outside for about 5 minutes, even if they go, sometimes they have to go again, make sure to ALWAYS REWARD when they go, wait until after they're finished to give them a "Good girl/boy" and a pet, as soon as you get inside give them a treat. Make sure to puppy proof your home before you bring your puppy. Basic Training begins at the end of this month, make sure you use their name as much as possible so they recognize it as their own. Sit, Stay, Come, and potty training she be practically covered in this month. Also, the check-up with your vet should take place, make an appointment to get them spayed/neutered as soon as possible. Play should be as much as possible to keep them entertained.

Month Four / Five

Time to get fixed, after surgery make sure not to go to any public water ways to avoid infection from spreading in open wounds. By now, flea/heart worm preventatives should be taken as according to veterinarian. Training from the previous month should be completed as well as other tricks like Lie down, roll over, potty, heal. Walks should be daily and you should be playing with them for at least an hour everyday. Multi-task, be online and play fetch in your living room. Transitions from puppy to adult food should be made, use the same trick as before when transitioning from kennel food to current food.

The Rest Of His / Her Life

-Baths should be once a week, or anytime after using public waterways
-Brushing should be twice a week to prevent overly exceeded shedding.
-Walks should be daily
-Hour of play everyday
-Potty time should be at least every 2 hours, rewards never end
-Training should always be rewarded, just vocal rewards after training has been achieved and mastered
-Treats could also be organic, tiny bits of carrot and apples are favorited by my dog.
-Water always accesable
-Feeding twice a day as stated above.
-Vet check-up should be made every few months


Any questions, please ask!

[axel]

Thanks for all that, Good notes.